Coppa Steak @ Toro Bravo

Another electrical guitar-driven rock-n-roll music concert at the Wonder Ballroom means another pre-show nosh at Toro Bravo. I am a creature of repetition.

Things started off with a Basque Kiss—Monopolowa vodka, Txakolina wine, apricot liqueur, peach bitters, lemon.

I hadn’t had the Coppa Steak in a couple years, and considering I was about to witness the frenetic, punk art-rock stylings of Brooklyn’s Les Savy Fav, I felt red meat would properly gird my loins for the impending sonic assault. The coppa steak is sliced to order from an entire smoked beef shoulder, layered atop olive oil-poached fingerlings and chopped olives, and served with a healthy dollop of almond-y salbitxada sauce. A smoky dish of meaty satisfaction.

Summer Grilling Series: Hot wings and collective bargaining agreements

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The past weekend presented the perfect confluence of two very special things: the tail-end of summer, and the first weekend of NFL football. In these here United States, such fleeting moments of serendipitous folly are captured with a celebratory act that often involves the consumption of recently separated wings from a domestic chicken.

The following recipe involves a take on your archetypical “hot” wings, except using Sriracha, aka “hot cock sauce”, instead of the Frank’s or similar Louisiana-based hot sauce concoction usually associated with Buffalo-style hot wings. Also, these are grilled.

If you ask me if they are better…well, I’m not sure if I can tell you that. Normally, “Buffalo” wings are deep fried and then tossed in an elixir of melted butter/margarine and Louisiana hot sauce, and then served with a dipping side of rich, white, cheese-based dressing and ancillary-ish celery sticks (that most racist American males discard faster than a crack whore baby). Is this “good”? Well, that’s up to your own particular sliding scale of taste. But it’s difficult to “refudiate” a concept so quintessentially American. That would be like refusing to dance to Tone Loc’s “Funky Cold Medina” at your cousin’s wedding.

But these grilled wings are different — the operative difference being that the “Buffalo” seasoning happens prior to grilling. This has the added benefit, as well, of being more healthy, but I don’t know if you can combine poultry skin and margarine and ever call it healthy by any extent of the imagination, even if you apply the saucing prior to finishing on the grill. That would be akin to asserting Michael Jackson as a doting father because he left a will.

Grilled Sriracha Hot Wings

  • A couple pounds of chicken wings
  • Equal parts: melted butter (or margarine) and Sriracha sauce
  • Optional: a neutral “reddening” agent like mild paprika or beet powder

Pour that nasty butter and chili sauce (and reddening) mixture over the wings and marinade for 4 hours. Get your charcoal Weber going in the backyard.

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Grill those bastages.

Eat, drink beer, and experience the deterioration of American sport.

Summer Griling Series: Golden trout

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Essentially duplicated the garden herbs/olive oil/acid marinade from my earlier post, here’s a golden trout, stuffed and rubbed with salt, pepper, herbs and lemon slices, and dusted with smoked paprika.

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Grill it up. Ain’t no thing.

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And while you’re at it, splash some olive oil onto some delicious zucchini squash and grill that up too. Always a summer crowd pleaser.

Summer Grilling Series: Grilled spatchcocked chicken

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This is the first part in a series of posts where I grill meat in my backyard.

I like grilling. Meat. In my backyard. I’ve got an old, beat up Weber kettle grill. One of the wheels is missing a cap, so whenever I roll the kettle its legs always pop out, spilling the grill proper onto the ground. One time, while grilling, I moved it slightly (to account for the smoke I was suffusing onto my tomato plants) and had to perform a bear hug save of the grill’s current contents…and proceeded to singe the living fuck out of my forearms.

Though I often entertain the idea of getting an obscene, propane monstrosity replete with dual side burners, refrigerated drawers, and scrotum massager, I quickly abandon such nonsense. Why waste the money when the Weber works just fine? I just shouldn’t be so stupid as to embrace a burning sphere of metal just to save a few medium rare strip steaks. Or maybe I can visit the hardware store and purchase a 25 cent wheel cap.

I do much of my grilling next to my garden, which in the summer features many green and tasty herbs, including chives, mint, thyme, rosemary, sage, parsley, and basil.

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As such, one of my favorite all-purpose marinades simply features a smattering of these herbs (chopped or whole), oil, acid, and seasonings.

Grilled Spatchcocked Chicken

Spatchcocking is a nice option for grilling a whole chicken. Spatchcocking, for the uninitiated, is not a sadistic, fraternity hazing ritual, but rather the act of cutting out the bird’s backbone (preferably with heavy duty kitchen shears) to leave a flat carcass. Which is much more friendly for grilling evenly. And deliciously.

  • One whole chicken
  • Assorted chopped fresh herbs
  • 5-6 cloves minced garlic
  • Olive oil
  • One lemon
  • Sea salt
  • Cracked black pepper
  • Smoked paprika

First thing: spatch the living cock out of that fucking chicken. This dude can show you how1.
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Sprinkle the bird with chopped herbs, garlic, and salt and pepper both sides. Pour oil to coat, and squeeze lemon. Using your hands, rub gently to mix in and settle the marinade. Sprinkle the top side of the chicken with smoked paprika, and allow to sit in the fridge for a few hours (or more).
Prepare your grill, dumping coals on one side. Grill chicken, 15-20 minutes per side, turning often, moving alternately from hot and cool side of kettle, covering and removing said cover as need be.

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You know, grilling.

1 However, I advise that you don’t search for more spatchcocking videos on Youtube, as it’s (evidently) a common move for strippers and, subsequently, home workout enthusiasts. Unless, of course, you want to hazard the wife walking into your office (to change the cat litter), only to discover some guy watching grainy amateur video featuring a skinny Jersey goth spreading her legs 180 degrees while straddling a long, metallic pole. And you can live with the results. Which in my case it’s the usual askew glance of tepid disgust and then eventual disregard.

Late afternoon nosh @Laurelhurst Market

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Tombo tuna crudo with ice lettuce. The tuna was sliced carpaccio-style, and sprinkled with an herb that gave it an anise-y/juniper note.

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Steak tartare. Always a crowd pleaser.

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Though it’s difficult to determine from this photo, this skirt steak with grilled cherry tomatoes and charred scallions was the hit of the night. God I love skirt steak.

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Bavette steak with arugula and romesco.

I like Laurelhurst market. It’s unpretentious, straightforward, and the meat is delicious and well-priced. Many consider this a “steakhouse” but I don’t think it falls under that rubric in the conventional sense. It’s just a great neighborhood restaurant that happens to feature a variety of excellent cuts of beef that you can also purchase, in-house, at the front of the “market”. Add a great bar with excellent house-made tonic to mix with your local spirits, and you have quintessential Portland.

Laurelhurst Market on THE WORLD WIDE WEB

The Goodist has been here
PortlandFood.org

Laurelhurst Market

3155 East Burnside Street
Portland, OR 97214-1951
(503) 206-3099

Restaurant Uruapan

ExtraMSG over at Portlandfood.org a while ago gave a firm shoutout to Canby’s Taqueria Uruapan. Considering I work in “SoPo” (or as the locals call it, “Wilsonville”) during the daylight hours I figured I’d drag a couple co-workers down to the see what was cooking in Portland’s southern hinterlands.

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If you’ve never travelled into Canby proper before, it’s easy to miss as Uruapan is a bit adrift amongst the folksy anachronism that is rustic, downtown Canby. The taqueria nestles adjacent to a Burgerville, which is itself just beyond a Safeway strip mall (fronted by Quizno’s and Panda Express), and if you spot the Taco Bell you’ve driven too far.

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Uruapan is pretty awesome inside. Allow me explain.

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First, they got a menu picture board, which is the first thing you need to do in order to be awesome. Then there’s a Neo Geo arcade console to the left of the ordering counter. Personally, if I wanted to take a confident, second step towards being awesome, this would be a capital purchase I would strongly consider.

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Next up is a jukebox stocked with the latest Sinaloan narco-ballads. Also a television is constantly tuned to Spanish telenovas. And there are babies just chilling out in their rocking chairs, or the employee/owner’s kids feeding quarters into the Neo Geo or just whimsically hanging out, all the time. All these things are awesome.

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Then you see that there are two pool tables. They also serve beer. Not only has awesomeness been cemented, but we’ve entered a state of existence that cannot be pigeonholed with the rubrical inadequacy of merely awesome. Post-awesome.

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Tacos are $1.25 here. Each includes two (2) tortillas, meaning each taco is double-wrapped. And they are great. And you get two. For each taco.

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And when you order, each tortilla is handmade there on the spot, to order, one-by-one. Those ladies are hand making the tortillas and grilling up bits and pieces of flesh to crisp perfection as we speak. Well, not as we speak, as in this moment, but on that day, back then, when I had my iPhone and was hungry.

And oh what crispy nuggets of delicious taco joy these are. Some of the best asada I’ve had in my time in Oregon. The “pastor” analog here is actually adobada, which are grilled meaty pork nibs bathed in a bright red, deliciously oily marinade.

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The condiments are excellent, and as you can witness are presented as sauces three, with sauce the third being an incredible avocado verde salsa that just earns this place more awesome stripes and gold stars.

Here are pictures of tacos in a various states of being.

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Restaurant Uruapan

851 SW 1st Ave (Hwy 99E)
Canby, OR 97013
503.263.4480

Kai yaang

Summer grilling season is upon us! Here’s to backyard grilling and bbq.

Kai Yaang (Thai grilled chicken)

  • 2 1/2 to 3 pounds various chicken parts, or a whole chicken, halved
  • 8 or more minced garlic cloves
  • 1 tablespoon ground white pepper
  • As much minced lemongrass as you like. I like a lot (like a 1/2 cup or more!)*
  • 6-8 thai bird chilies, minced
  • 1 tablespoon soy sauce
  • 2 tablespoons fish sauce
  • 1 tablespoon oyster sauce
  • 1 tablespoon turbinado sugar
  • Half a bunch of cilantro, chopped
  • 1 tablespoon Chinese black vinegar

* Fubonn (and many Vietnamese markets) sell finely minced lemongrass in plastic tubs in the freezer section. They are a time saver, and the industrial cut is finer than anything you can reproduce at home. Highly recommended

Place chicken parts in a bowl. Add all the marinade ingredients and mix well. Marinade for at least four hours or overnight.
Start a charcoal grill in your kettle grill, keeping the hot coals on one half.
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Once the coals are going, grill the chicken for 10-15 minutes over hot coals, turning often, until a nice color develops.

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Move the chicken to the cooler side of the grill. Turn every so often, and cook for another 20-30 minutes. This is backyard grilling—use your backyard grillSense. Move parts back to the hot side as needed.

Serve with sweet chili dipping sauce.

Pho An Sandy

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I’ve been going to this place for nearly eight years, back when it was Pho Oregon “West” (despite being only a mile from the other Pho Oregon at NE 82nd Ave).

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The interior is spartan. You are automatically rationed the standard beverages.

It took a name change, and a format change, plus Extra MSG’s vetting of the assorted grilled meat platter, that got me thinking about anything but pho at this place.

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But why would I? I’ve long contended this location on NE Sandy, when it existed as a namesake to the NE 82nd version, had the better bowl of soup of the two doppelgängers. Since the obvious switch of ownership (and name, and staff, who are now dressed in lovely white uniforms) a few years back, I had no reason to really look past the first turn of the first menu page, the page where various permutations of pho are listed in perfunctory uniformity, the same list xeroxed and sampled by every pho joint from Chula Vista to Bellingham.

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The salad platter at Pho An Sandy, as it was back when it was Pho Oregon, is unparalleled in Portland. You will always get more than enough <em>ngo gai</em>, aka culantro aka sawtooth herb, no matter how lily white your skin or accent may be.

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The broth at Pho An Sandy I believe is one of our city’s most well balanced, though—as with any soup joint with high turnover that is constantly bootstrapping their stockpot—it can vary in the amount of spice, clarity, beefiness, sweetness, etc.

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The braised meats (chin, nam) are very consistent.

All in all, a very excellent pho, served quickly and without fuss. What more could you ask for? Well, Pho An Sandy also has a wide and varied menu that expands beyond the perfunctory soup offerings.

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Including this “dac biet” mixed grill platter, which features bo la lot (beef wrapped in betel leaves), grilled lemongrass pork (topped with sauteed shallots and chopped peanuts)…

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…grilled sugarcane shrimp…

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…and nem nuong (pork patty/sausage)

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As is Pho An Sandy’s MO, the salad platter that accompanied this impressive phalanx of deliciously grilled meats was generous, overflowing with spearmint, perilla, rau ram, cucumber, and lettuce.

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The general idea with Vietnamese meats is to roll your own (using the carefully constructed quenelles of rice noodles served with the meats as a starch foundation), thus you’re given a bowl of warm water and dried rice paper sheets…

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…and a bowl of nuoc cham dipping sauce (always add a dollop of the fresh chili garlic sauce on the table—you’ll be thankful).

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A delicious strip of nem nuong about in pre-rolled state.

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I can roll a fat blunt.

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Come to daddy, sugarcane shrimp.

Pho An Sandy on THE WORLD WIDE WEB
Portlandfood.org

Pho An Sandy

6236 Northeast Sandy Boulevard
Portland, OR 97213
(503) 281-2990

Suburban Kai Yaang

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Kai Yaang from the Thai restaurant out in the burbs where the office is located. Nothing mind blowing, pretty simple actually, but the chili sauce seemed custom (if a bit too sweet), and—at $7.50 for half a bird—quite a damn good deal. Nothing like the aggressively marinade full court press you’ll get from a cornish hen @ Pok Pok, but good enough to stuff your ass for another 5 hours until quitting time.

Thai Village

8633 SW Main St # 400
Wilsonville, OR 97070-6584
(503) 682-6211

Snacks @Ping

Recently hit Chinatown’s Ping for some post-work drinks and snackables.

Bellied up to the counter/bar, where I prefer eating. At Ping you might smell like a combination of smoke and fish sauce when you leave, though.

Ping features excellent skewered meat. A round was ordered. At Ping the skewered meat is priced per skewer, but you have to order a minimum of two. This has always been their policy, even since I first visited Ping a little over a year ago during its Grand Opening week. Apparently the two skewer minimum is a problem for some people. Why don’t they just say there’s two to an order and double the price? I thought about this long and hard over the last year, and then it occurred to me. With this policy, you can order three! or Five! Or Seven!!!

lamb satay skewer: malaysian satay with peanut sauce. ($2.50/ea)

bbq beef skewer: with pineapple & chili, sweet soy, pepper and fish sauce. ($2.50/ea)

baby-octopus skewer: marinated in lime, chilies, garlic, fish sauce and cilantro. ($3.50/ea)

house-made fish ball skewer: thai-style, dipped in sweet chili sauce. ($2.50/ea)

Everthing was oh so flavorful and tasty. Like food. Aggressively seasoned. Made with ingredients. So another round was ordered.

To mix up the protein, a decision was made to introduce a bit of green. Something to modulate this gut carpet-bombing campaign.

nonya-style greeen beans: in spicy coconut curry and fried shallots. ($8). NOTE: this is just an a la carte dish. No two order minimum. Though I would order two because they are tasty and toothsome.

beef satay skewer. malaysian satay with peanut sauce. ($2.50/ea)

We had the lamb already…why not the beef? I am an equal opportunity, craven consumer of ungulate flesh, especially that of the artiodactyl. I assume one day I shall explore perissodactyls with the zeal and attention they deserve.

quail egg skewer: wrapped in bacon, with spicy mayo sauce. ($2.75/ea)

It is my contention that if you ate these with every meal every day for the rest of your life you would die happy and stupid and soon.

A salted plum collins and a couple Tiger beers rounded things out.

And because I’m a masochist who actively sabotages his lower gastrointestinal tract, another couple deliciously incendiary skewers of the spicy baby octopus made their way to our countertop. Much to the displeasure of my anus the next morning. Don’t hate the playa; hate the game.

Ping

102 Northwest 4th Avenue
Portland, OR 97209
(503) 229-7464

Ping on THE WORLD WIDE WEB

pdx PLATE
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and Lizzy has been here…
and so has the Fearless Critic

Late night snack

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Let’s see…what went into the pot. Olive oil, garlic, shallots, tomatoes…a few crushed chilies. A small bottle of clam juice, a healthy pour of vermouth. Anise-y, fresh Thai basil. And of course a swat of butter at the end to finish things, followed by the squeeze of half a lemon. Hence the grilled, crusty bread chunks, sitting off-focus in the background. The bread truly becomes a joie de vivre when the clams have been excavated and slurped. Each dredge of crusty bread through a liquid layered with these flavors comprises a final act worthy of the chapter that preceded.

Sate marinated game hens

I like game hens. They are like chickens, except in diminutively exact scale. You can eat an entire game hen at one sitting and not feel like a glutton. So I eat two.

One thing that worries: are “game hens” simply baby chickens prematurely slaughtered on a factory farm? Is this a moral quandary for which I’m ill equipped to handle due to my own shortcomings? My failure to subscribe to a moral imperative derived from a careful exploration of Kantian ethics? Or are these really indeed “game” birds that have lived a fruitful life wandering the short brush of Appalachian foothills until they met their untimely fate? I’d prefer to subscribe to the fatalism of the latter, though the former is most likely closer to the inconvenient truth.

In any regards, this is some delicious poultry.

This is a simple recipe for excellent grilled game hens. Since they are small, you can grill them on an open flame without having to spatchcock the bird (though certainly if you want to butterfly it to cut down on cooking time you could).

The marinade is simply a deep rub of the Vietnamese “sate” condiment, a wonderfully reddish and fiery paste of lemongrass, fish sauce, and chilies. My recipe is cribbed straight from Andrea Nguyen, who I considered the Julia Child of Vietnamese cuisine in these here United States.

You can also buy jarred versions of sate (not to be confused with “satay”) sauce at any Asian store that specializes in the Southeast Asian ingredients, and that should work in a pinch. It should be an oily, deep hue of red, with lots of “gritty”-ness (from the aromatic alliums and lemongrass).

Sate Grilled Game Hens

  • 2 Game Hens
  • 6 tablespoons prepared sate condiment (see Andrea’s recipe)
  • 2 stalks of lemongrass, ends and nubs removed (and set aside) and finely minced
  • 4 ounces lager beer
  • Dozen kaffir lime leaves
  • Discarded tops and nubs of various lemongrass stalks (from those used to make the sate and from the fresh lemongrass I just told you about)

In a small bowl, combine sate, minced lemongrass, and beer. Mix into a paste. Rub all over each game hen and in the inner cavities. Stuff the inner cavity with lime leaves and lemongrass discards. Allow to marinate 4-12 hours in the fridge.

Prepare a charcoal grill, piling the coals disproportionately with one hot side and one cool(er) side. Once the coals are hot, grill over hot heat, turning often to get grill-y marks on all quadrants of the bird. Move to the cool side of the grill and cover (opening up the slot vents). Roast for 20 minutes, turning every 5 minutes. Set aside and let rest.

I could eat this forever and a day with plain, steamed jasmine rice.

Grilled summertime halibut

I’ve had oral surgery recently and have been limited to soft foods. As a result, my normal routine has been eviscerated, as I’ve been drinking a lot of soymilk protein shakes and eating a lot of soups.

As summer plays out its final days, it’s been extremely frustrating as this is when you want to get in some quality outdoor grilling time. Normally, I would spend my weekends grilling ribs, chicken, steaks, burgers, etc. in the twilight. However, I can’t eat any of that.

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I can, however, eat the delicate, sweet flesh from the sea, and have been using it as a foil to scratch my outdoor grilling itch.

Grilled Halibut (Marinated in Olive Oil, Sel Gris and Herbs)

Place a nice, thick filet of halibut (skin on the bottom) in a shallow dish and cover it generously with extra virgin olive oil, and turn a couple times to coat. Coat the skinless side with a generous layer of coarse sel gris and fresh cracked pepper, and use your hand to pat down the seasonings. Allow to marinade for at least a few hours.

Right before building your grill, top with chopped fresh thyme, whole fresh mint leaves, and a couple garlic cloves forced through a garlic press.

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Build your grill. I’ve got one of these slotted grill “skillets” that is perfect for grilling fish filets. Since I’m not blackening the fish, and halibut is a delicate flesh, I prefer to build a low flame with a minimal amount of charcoal.

Place the filet, non-skin side down, making sure the herbs and garlic aren’t displaced.

Grill for 2-4 minutes (depending on the strength of your fire), and flip over.

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What to eat with your grilled halibut? If you’re lucky, like me, to have a sous chef, you can skirt child labor laws and put them to work on grilling a bundle of fresh spinach leaves while you kick back and enjoy a nice glass of whatever pleases you.

Hey, you’re outside, it’s summer, the grill is your plate. Time to eat.

Gibsons: Chicago Road Trip, Red Meat Edition

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I was recently in Chicago with the family, visiting some dear friends, and decided to eat some meat.

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Gibson’s is a prototypical old school steakhouse, some would say “an institution”, the kind of place where framed portraits of celebrities are plastered over every inch of wall. This is your chance to eat at the same place where the guy who starred as the bitter paraplegic vet in Forrest Gump devoured a porterhouse. The restaurant is located just north of downtown Chicago at the epicenter (the “G spot”?) of an area known as the “Viagra Triangle”, named presumably because it’s where formerly virile captains of industry bring their silicon-enhanced, pre-fab trophy fillies (with whom they are cheating on their third wives with) to consume Cobb salads and long drink cocktails just prior to chemically enhancing their flaccid male appendages.

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The night kicks off when the white-jacketed waitron—a pro’s pro, he’s been doing this his whole life—presents you with a slab of naked meat that’s nearly startling with its immensity and near-pornagraphic bravura. The meat parade is one of the odder steakhouse traditions. It is quite uncomfortable being presented with raw flesh, just inches from your face, while some stranger prods the tepid meat with his index digit. The spiel here is relatively short, straightforward and sticks to the script. Menus are dropped in quick order and drinks are dispatched. Service here consisted of several, interchangeable and well-oiled apparatus – brusquely appropriate and warmly efficient.

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Bread is brought immediately.

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Gibson’s raison d’etre. The steaks are wet aged, as opposed to dry.

The menus and wine menu. Like many images on this blog, clicking on them will allow the user to view a larger specimen.

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We started with this “Crabmeat Avocado”. It was quite good–and expertly carved avocado half, inverted and topped with plenty of sweet crab meat, topped with a tangy goddess-like dressing.

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A velvety-smooth lobster bisque and perfunctory caesar salad accompanied our steaks.

I got the bone-in tenderloin. Now, some may say this steak is burnt. I’m not going to go that far, but I will state the exterior char was nearing a level that I’m not normally comfortable with (but not quite).

The steak itself was cooked perfectly to the medium-rare I requested. It was a decent slab of meat, however it could have benefited from a bordelaise sauce, something to add flavor and richness. I’m not sure why I order tenderloin when I know it’s going to be, well, just tenderloin–a mostly flavorless cut, even when it’s prime beef.

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And the tarragon-flecked hollandaise it’s served with is a cloying, middling affair.

This sirloin, served atop a red wine reduction, on the other hand, was packed full of flavor. This was excellent the next morning (with some leftover rice) for breakfast.

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The sauteed spinach and mushrooms were really just spinach mostly wilted from the heat of the sauteed shrooms. Somewhat disappointing.

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And this double baked potato was comically immense.

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But really, what is better than fine red wine and fine red prime during a night on the town in the City of Broad Shoulders?

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Yippee! Let’s get cake. This slice fed the three of us.

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So we had to take the other 4/5ths back home to the fridge, where the cake will stand, uneaten for the most part, in prime real estate on the second shelf, slowly but surely mocking you as a reminder of all the bad decisions you’ve made in your life. This latest, cake-over-ordering episode is simply another instance.

Gibsons Bar & Steakhouse

1028 N Rush St, Chicago
(312) 266-8999
www.gibsonssteakhouse.com

Poke

Ahi Poke

  • 1/2 pound sashimi-grade ahi block, diced
  • 1 stalk chopped green onion
  • 1/4 chopped white onion
  • 1 tablespoon low-sodium soy sauce
  • Squeeze of lemon juice
  • 1 tablespoon sesame oil
  • Hawaiin red salt
  • Grated fresh ginger
  • Togarishi (Japanese chili pepper blend)

Combine all ingredients except togarishi. Refridgerate for a bit. Sprinkle with togarishi before serving.

Road Trip: Southland Fried Chicken Edition

Los Angeles has it share of problems. And for that, LA likewise amasses its share of detractors who decry the smog, earthquakes, and transparently farcical celebrity sex tapes.

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If you’ve read the news lately, you’re aware the state of California is on also the brink of insolvency. As I exited LA one early weekday recent morning, I drove past a local high school. I was greeted by quite a sight: school faculty and students alike in active protest against impending, draconian budget cuts that threaten to turn the LA Unified School District into an instrument more suited to serve a third-world banana republic rather than future adults living in America’s second most populous conurbation. By the time this blog post is published, the radical mouth-breathers holding California’s state legislature hostage may have already decreed that public education (as well as life-sustaining services for the sick and elderly) is just another Socialist folly dispensed from a pile of filthy lucre, one that deliberately engenders class warfare. If what I heard on AM talk radio as I drove north between Bakersfield and Fresno is any indication, there are many fatalists looking forward to their state’s impending implosion.

But I digress, as—despite all these problems—Los Angeles has excellent fried chicken.

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Pollo Campero is a Guatemalan chain that has made recent in-roads into America (including a few Wal-marts). The Los Angeles area boasts numerous locations. This is fast-food, and the combos here–in lieu of mashed potatoes, corn, and a biscuit and honey—feature rice, beans and steamed white corn tortillas.

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I’m unsure of the exact provenance of the marinade which gives the pollo frito at Campero a reddish hue. I assume it’s spiked with plenty of red chilies—but the chicken is neither spicy nor aggressively seasoned. Finger-torn strips of meat, wrapped in tortillas and topped with garnishes from the self-serve salsa bar (chopped onions, a sub-par salsa fresca, and serviceable verde and red sauces) make serviceable, impromptu fried chicken tacos. Chicken itself off the bone was fantastic, with savory crispness that had me seeking bits of battered goodness hiding in the crevices of a breast rib.

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The sides at Pollo Campero were a pleasant surprise. A mild rice–studded with peas stood up relatively well, nothing special.

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But the beans—pintos imbued with porky goodness from the bacon and sausage they were simmered with—were very good. Pollo Campero is the type of “boutique” fast food I could live with.

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On another end of the fried chicken spectrum, by way of Korea, is Kyochon, an eatery in Koreatown whose culinary reputation has reached near-mythic proportions. Reading Jonathon Gold’s effusive praise in the LA Weekly cemented my desire to see for myself if the fried chicken was worth the price (which starts at $4.99 for 4 wings or 2 drumsticks).

Kyochon features two flavors, a garlic soy or the spicy “original”. I picked up a four pack of spicy wings, and a 2-piece portion of the garlic soy drumsticks.

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The chicken pieces they had on hand must have been deemed on the smaller side, as we were actually given three very flavorul and crispy drumsticks…

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…and five amazing chicken wings. The smell of these heavenly morsels quickly dominated during the car ride home, and resisting the urge to snack on a wing as I hurtled down Pico Blvd was torturous. I will say these fiery, sticky and sweet wings were some of the best I’ve had. Fuck the celery and blue cheese—give me a bucket of these and crisp pint of lager come football season.

More

Kyochon on THE WORLD WIDE WEB

Pollo Campero THE WORLD WIDE WEB

Tri-tip Roast

The tri-tip roast is one of my favorite cuts o’ beef. From the WIKIPEDIA- THE FREE ENCYCLOPEDIA ON THE WORLD WIDE WEB:

The tri-tip is a cut of beef from the bottom sirloin primal cut.[1] It is a small triangular muscle, usually 1.5 to 2.5 lbs. (675 to 1,150g) per side of beef.

In much of Europe, the tri-tip is usually sliced into steaks, known as “triangle steaks” in the United Kingdom. In France the tri-tip is called aiguillette baronne and is left whole as a roast.[2] In Northern Germany, it is called Bürgermeisterstück or Pastorenstück, in Southern Germany and Austria Hüferschwanzel, and a traditional Bavarian and Austrian dish serves it boiled with horseradish. In Spain, it is often grilled whole and called the punta de triángulo. In Central America, this cut is also usually grilled in its entirety, and is known as punta de Solomo, and in South America, it is grilled as part of the Argentine asado and is known as colita de cuadril.

I like the tri-tip because it’s big and beefy—it’s ultimately representative what I think “beef” should taste like—and, as long as you have a steady heat source and a decent marinade, cooking tri-tip is relatively easy with predictable results. Asian-style marinades work well, as does grill/roasting. Also, the tri-tip is a lean cut of beef, so you can really pig out.

Tri-tip Roast/Marinade

  • 1 tablespoon soy
  • 1 tablespoon maggi
  • 2 tablespoons worcestshire
  • 1 tablespoon sweetened black chinese vinegar
  • 8 cloves garlic, smashed and coarsely chopped
  • 1/2 white onion, finely diced
  • Juice of 1 lime
  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 2 tablespoons oyster sauce
  • Plenty of coarse ground red szechuan, green and black peppercorns (if you think you’ve used too much, then use some more)

Combine all ingredients, pour over tri-tip and turn to coat. Marinade overnight.

Fire up you grill—I like charcoal in a conventional kettle style Weber.

Here’s a technique I’ve come to use more and more. I use a chimney starter for my charcoal. Newspaper in the bottom ignites the bottom layer of charcoal, which builds over the course of 15 minutes to a towering inferno of blazing hot flames. Before dumping this, I like to place the grill grate of my mini Weber kettle on top of the flames and sear my meat, before dumping the coals and finishing the roast over indirect heat under a covered (and vented) dome.

Most timing charts will tell you about a 1/2 hour per pound, I would go less than that if you like your meat more on the pink side. If you have a meat thermometer, you can test for internal doneness. Turn once during roasting, and of course, allow the meat to sit for at least 10 minutes after removing from the grill.

Wings and things

Football season is coming up, so here’s another wing recipe I’ve recently declared as worthy of a spot on the practice squad.

Chicken wings seasoned with spices and stuff

  • 1 tablespoon fish sauce
  • 1 tablespoon Maggi®
  • 1 tablespoon rice vinegar
  • 1 tablespoon rice wine
  • 1 teaspoon sugar
  • 1 teaspoon sambal/chili garlic sauce
  • Juice of half lime

Whisk the above ingredients. Pour over:

1 1/2 pounds chicken wings

To that add:

  • 6 minced cloves of garlic
  • 1 small knob finely minced (or smashed) ginger
  • 2 stalks green onion, chopped
  • 1 tablespoon turmeric
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons five spice powder
  • 1 teaspoon ground dried galangal, dried ginger, dried lemongrass, cumin seeds, coriander seeds, fennel seeds, szechuan peppercorns*

*I just happened to have an OXO grinder that I fill with such things. Lucky me.

Mix everything well. Marinade for at least 4 hours or overnight.

Fire up the charcoal grill.

Grill.

Good Taste Pork

Good Taste has two restaurants: one in NW Chinatown (4th Ave. location pictured above) and the other located in SE Portland (82nd Ave).

Both locations feature hanging meat you can buy.

Including this roasted side of pork, with its layers of lean meat unctuously braised from the fat drippings bloomed from the deliciously crisped, salted fatty skin layer. They will ask you if you like it chopped, which will result in perfect “popcorn chicken”-like equivalents of meat crack.

Chens Good Taste Restaurant

18 NW 4th Ave, Portland
(503) 223-3838

Good Taste Noodle House

8220 SE Harrison St, Portland
(503) 788-6909

Furikake ahi

Some time ago I had an ahi appetizer at Saucebox, a local restaurant and bar in downtown Portland. The tuna was coated with furikake and seared over high heat, creating an interesting texture that I rather enjoyed. The app was accompanied with a creamy sauce that I don’t quite remember (possibly a kewpie base with chili sauce) — it was certainly fine, but I generally prefer lighter dressing for my fish.

As it was $14 for about 2 ounces of fish (if that), I decided to replicate it at home using an ahi filet from the local sashimi-grade fishmongerer.

Furikake Ahi

1. Furikake. From Wikipedia:

Furikake (振り掛け or ふりかけ) is any dry Japanese condiment meant to be sprinkled on top of rice. It typically consists of a mixture of dried and ground fish, sesame seeds, chopped seaweed, sugar, salt, and monosodium glutamate. Other flavorful ingredients such as katsuobushi (sometimes indicated on the package as bonito), salmon, shiso, egg, vegetables, etc. are often added to the mix.

Uwajimaya carries a few brands, some with more than half a dozen varietals that are all variation upon a theme.

2. Shichimi-Togarashi

Japanese red pepper blend. I had a friend in high school/college who worked in her Mom’s sushi restaurant (she’d open the place to us after hours), and she swore to me that marijuana seeds were an integral component to togarashi. Seeing as we were eating drunkenly-rolled maki (“Go back there,” she would say, gesturing to the sushi bar, “and help yourself”), swilling Kirins and cutting into her mom’s profit margins, I was inclined to believe her.

3. Salt.

Use your judgement and create a thin coating layer on a plate or cutting board.

Coat the flesh with a nice layer of furikake and seasonings. Heat a stainless steel pan over high heat until smoking, add a bit of peanut oil (should smoke immediately). Sear ahi one minute per side.

Remove from plate.

Slice, and top with your favorite sauce, which for me is ponzu.

Ponzu

  • 1/4 cup mirin
  • 1/8 cup rice vinegar
  • 3 tablespoons soy sauce
  • Pinch of bonito flakes
  • Juice of one lemon
  • Lemon zest

Combine everything, bring to a boil. Remove from heat and strain.

Char sui pork

Here’s a secret.

I use the packet.

Yep.

The ingredients list of a representative packet, which you can pick up at any Asian store for anywhere from $.69 to $1.19. Reputable brands include Noh and Mama Sita. What’s not to like? Anti-caking agent…yum.

Here’s the deal. This marinade is pretty standard, and you can forego the packet, but I eat with my eyes. I need the red. I get off on the red. Eating something red really indulges a fetish I can’t fully explain.

And if that means I eat a bit of food coloring, I’m ok with that. Isn’t this molecular gastronomy? And it is “natural”. It’s a derivation of anatto/achiote. And probably cochineal beetle.

Char Sui Pork

  • 2 pounds pork of various sort, preferably a fatty cut like country style ribs (if I’m using something like a pork shoulder, I like to trim fat and tie it back up with butcher twine )
  • 1/2 packet commercial char sui seasoning. I prefer Noh brand, which is plenty RED
  • 2 garlic cloves, minced
  • 2 tablespoons low-sodium soy sauce
  • 3 tablespoons hoisin sauce
  • 2 tablespoons honey
  • 2 tablespoons rice wine
  • Couple squirts chili oil (more RED!) or sesame oil
  • 1/2 teaspoon five-spice powder

Combine all ingredients except for the meat, and mix well to create a nice slurry, sludgey liquid. Pour over meat and use your hands to really get the marinade in there. The meat should be red. If it’s not sufficiently red enough, I would add more of the char sui seasoning or perhaps slit your jugular and allow the contents to spill all over the pork.

Allow to marinade for at leat 4 hours, more if you are like me and like flavor.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Place the pork on a sheet pan or wire rack, reserving marinade, and roast for 20-25 minutes. “Lacquer” marinade with a brush every 10 minutes, three times (an additional 30 minutes or so).

Remove, allow to cool, and slice up.

This marinade is equally delicious with spare ribs. The marinade is equivalent to the brining that I usually do when I cook ribs, though I would tent the ribs with foil in a 250 degree oven and steam/roast/bake for 90 minutes before finishing off/lacquering on an open flame grill.

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Often, at Asian markets you can find individually sliced ribs for the purpose of making individual, cha sui ribs. Here’s those ribs marinating with a loin or two. Acknowledge the red.

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And the pork all cooked up.

Now that you have a lot of char sui pork on hand, you can use it in stir fries, banh mi sandwiches, salad rolls, and, my favorite…

…as a topping for noodle soups.

Grilled fish sauce wings

Now that the NFL is entering crunch time, college football is about to sharpen its muddled bowl picture, and Tom Brady is busy girding his loins to inseminate another supermodel or actress, it’s definitely wing season. And it’s about time to bust out an alt-wing recipe to mix things up a bit. Think of this recipe as the Devin Hester of wings — explosive, and even though you kinda expect what’s coming, you can never really prepare for it and you’re caught flat-footed when it arrives. That is probably the lamest thing I have ever written.

This is a simple recipe for some delicious wings. There are only five ingredients, but one of the most important ingredients isn’t even an ingredient at all—it’s actually the grilling. It’s essential to grill these wings outdoors over a charcoal flame. It really rounds out the flavor. If you decide not to grill over a charcoal flame, I will assume no liability.

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Here are the ingredients. There’s a Loation store on North Killingsworth that sells frozen lemongrass that’s finely minced. It’s a real timesaver, as lemongrass freezes real well. Also, whenever my Mom visits, she insists on buying a couple heads of lemongrass and mincing them with steady knifework, and packages it up for freezing, so it always seems I have ready-to-use lemongrass on hand. Just make sure you get as fine, fine, fine as possible. You’ll also see here that I’m using my own pickled bird chilies. Use fresh ones, or make your own pickles…or freeze them, as they also freeze well. I find it impossilbe to use an entire package of bird chilies that I buy at the store before they go bad (and they are difficult to find loose by the pound), which is why I often freeze or pickle half of them immediately.

Grilled Fish Sauce Wings

  • 2 dozen wings
  • 4 or 5 tablespoons finely minced lemongrass
  • 9 or 10 thai bird chilies, finely minced
  • 6 cloves of garlic, forced through a garlic press
  • 1 tablespoon sugar
  • 6 tablespoons fish sauce

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Mix everything together, and set aside to marinade at least 2-3 hours, longer if, like me, you like tasting stuff with more taste.

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Grill them up. I’m not going to tell you how to grill. If you don’t know how to grill, just give up already and get a MySpace page or something.

Now root for Matt Shaub and the Houston Texans this Sunday because I used my two of my top 3 picks for LaDanian Tomlinson and Antonio Gates and those fuckers don’t seem to score at the same time this season. The third pick was Mark Bulger and he’s decided to be a total pussy this year.

Ginger Chicken (Ga Kho)

Caramel Sauce

  • 2 or 3 tablespoons palm sugar
  • 2 tablespoons or so water

Make caramel sauce by melting palm sugar in small saucepan (preferably stainless steel). Add water and stir until consistency is reached.

Chicken

Get an entire chicken and cleaver it into logical small pieces, “breaking” the bones of the main cuts.

Other Ingredients

  • 1 knob (3 inches) of ginger
  • 3 or 4 garlic cloves
  • 4 or 5 small bird (thai) chilies
  • Black pepper
  • 1/2 white onion, slivered
  • 2 or more tablespoons of fish sauce
  • Water
  • Salt if you want
  • Half a package of green onions, chopped

Peel the large knob of ginger. Cut it into very thin “sheets”. Cut half of the sheets into fine julienne, and set aside. Combine the remaining ginger in mortar with garlic and chilies. Pound.

In a dutch oven or large sautee pan, add just a touch of peanut oil, and pounded aromatics, slivered ginger, sautee for a minute or so, then follow with the chicken pieces. Stir fry for a few minutes until the chicken is lightly browned.

Add caramel sauce, fish sauce, onions, and enough water to cover the chicken pieces. Stir and bring to a boil, then reduce to very low simmer, stir, and hit with black pepper. Partially cover and simmer for 45 minutes to an hour, stirring occasionally.

Turn off heat. Garnish with chopped green onions and let sit for half an hour. You may need to salt/add more fish sauce at this point to your preference. Serve with steamed jasmine rice.

Roadtrip: Pacific Seafood – Bay City, OR

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A 45-minute drive from Cannon Beach, in Bay City, Oregon, is a place called Pacific Seafood that processes oysters from the sea.

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Bay City is on a bay. Here’s the proof. That’s the bay. Presumably, that’s the source for the oysters themselves. The sea provides us humans with a delicious bounty.

Pacific Oyster itself is located at “150 Oyster Drive” in Bay City, which to me seems a bit over the top, as the “drive” in this case is a parking lot/pier. And the “150″ makes no sense at all, because it’s the only building on Oyster Drive. This made me mad for a short time.

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This is where all the oyster processing happens. In the processing plant.

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Oyster products, packaged and branded (those are smoked oysters up top). You can buy these products here, at the plant, and you’ll also find them at area grocery stores and purveyors of fine foodstuffs.

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Spent oyster shells being shot into a collection bin. That’s one huge pile of oysters.

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The shells are collected in bags and stacked at the far end of the pier. I’m not sure what is done with the shells at this point. Presumably a freighter comes along and picks up the load and carts it off to a faraway land where oyster shells are prized and used as currency. Some place like The Phillipines or Hawaii.

I know what you’re saying. So what? Why are you taking us to a sea snot factory? What next, the inside of a fucking dairy? Well, consider yourself lucky that you’ve read this far, because…

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Pacific Seafood sells oysters to eat on the premises! Its actually a restaurant, that, in addition to the raw oysters you see above, serves sandwiches and other fare. But this is an oyster post, so on to the oysters. They were out of kumamotos, which pissed me off goddamnit, because that’s why I basically drove 45 minutes to Bay City, OR, braving Highway 101…

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…to endure crappy scenery like this. The Oregon coast really is a shithole. Nature’s taint.

So after cursing my bad luck, I composed myself and ordered a dozen Pacific Oysters — a half dozen xtra-smalls and another half dozen smalls.

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The xtra-smalls. I love how they give you plenty of lemons. I hate when you order a dozen oysters and you get only one wedge. Life is too short to deprive yourself of citrus (and the specter of scurvy always lurks).

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The “smalls”. Jesus, these were big. As a point of reference, that’s a normal-sized lemon wedge.

I had a hard time choking these down. The first 6 xtra-smalls slid down no problem, but by the third “small” I was starting to fatigue. I had to leave the last oyster on the ice. If, like me, you have a hard time choking down large raw oysters, I would stick to the xtra-smalls (or the kumamotos of course). The “small” would make a good frying or grilling oyster, though. I can only wonder what the mediums are like. Probably similar in size to a pork chop or a chihuahua.

Pacific Seafood

150 Oyster Dr.
Bay City, OR 97053
503-377-2323

Further Reading

Pacific Oyster @Roadfood.com

“Pacific Seafood – Bay City, Lunch on the Coast” (thread @Portlandfood.org)