At $1.50 for a carnitas, and for asada and pastor tacos clocking in at nearly 2 bucks ($1.95), the tacos at La Bonita occupy the upper-end of the taco price scale. However, for what you’re getting, it’s a pretty fair deal.
The taco triumvarite.
Asada. The meat was simultaneously tender and crispy. Nice, ample chunks of carne splendor.
Pastor. Expertly scented pork nuggets seasoned with achiote. Again, tender and bountiful. Excellent.
Carnitas. Perfect, meaty chunks of fall-apart tender pork, slightly greasy, as it should be. A quintessential carnivorous flavor.
A fully dress asada taco. The green table sauce is tangy, with a lovely saltiness. The red sauce has changed since my last visit. It used to be a fiery, intense red sauce made predominately from chilies. The recent version has a tomato component, and is much more subdued. Not as intense as I’d prefer, but delicious nonetheless. I would eat it with chips.
The toning down of the heat in the primary table sauce may be a direct nod to the growing gentrification of the Alberta/Concordia neighborhood.
La Bonita’s facade has been redesigned since my last visit.
At $2 a clip, the tacos here are twice the price of other taqueries, including the 2 other shops just walking distance from La Bonita on Alberta.
But as you can see with the gentle overflowing of delicious pork goodness from this pastor taco, it is easily worth it. The last few tacos I’ve had here are some of the best I’ve had since I’ve been in Portland. La Bonita has hit their stride.
The wall mural at La Bonita.
La Bonita
2839 Ne Alberta St
Portland, OR 97211
(503) 281-3662
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December 8th, 2007 at 8:15 pm
katez0r
Oh, La Bonita. How I adore you so, your carne asada, so flavorful, tender, and crispy.
I ate there weekly (if not more) for the two years I lived four blocks away. I noticed that they changed their red sauce a couple times, and this latest incarnation is my least favorite. I wanted to argue with you about the nod to gentrification, but then I thought about all their changes to the menu — they didn’t have a taco salad when I started eating there, or nachos (the one time I had both they were not very good, btw). The last time I went there I was helped by a girl with dreads. It made me miss the old Bonita, but, damn, their food still kicks serious ass. Especially when compared to the shithole taqueria I live by now — Cha Cha Cha — who’s food just straight-up sucks, and has outrageously priced tacos ($2.50).
Anyway, thanks for the Bonita lovin’!
December 9th, 2007 at 5:43 pm
The Guilty Carnivore
I agree with you Kate. I think maybe the gentrification term has a lot of baggage to it; I personally don’t subscribe to a black/white view of the concept. But it’s hard to deny La Bonita has moved to a more polished version of its former itself. I personally find it delightful. Even though I no longer live the neighborhood, this is really a destination locale as my wife loves their veggie burritos. The extended menu really looks to cover territory usually not found at “divey” taquerias, but if they continue to do amazing things with the core winners, who cares? The meats here are heads and shoulders above other places in the area, even Por Que No on Mississippi.
I’m really happy with the family that runs this place. They seem like great people, and have found their place as a solid anchor on Alberta Street.
P.s. I saw that they are selling un-cooked holiday tamales for $16/dozen, with instructions on how to steam them at your own home. I’m going to definitely hook this up next week.
December 9th, 2007 at 6:58 pm
VeganFabulous
I heart La Bonita! It is refreshing to have quality food at such a reasonable price. In my neighborhood (NW 23rd area) we have devastating options like Santa Fe and Pepinos, both of which are over priced and under spiced.